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“I was looking back through the history, from Paco Rabanne to me: You have the minimal, the ’70s, then I come along with the melancholy, the couture corsage, the candles,” says Butrym, whose codeword during the secretive design process was “Bloom.” (Simone Rocha’s was “Pearl”)

intricately embroidered corset bodice that offers a flattering